Katharine re-visits the archive pieces that have inspired some of the garments in the new Autumn/Winter ’17 collection
Archive Satin Bomber Jacket
“This is the remains of a first prototype for a jacket I produced in 1979 that someone grabbed and has worn to death. It was inspired by an old military jacket that belonged to a boyfriend I had at the time, who I thought was a god. I re-proportioned it slightly all over, added side pockets under the front patch pockets which I thought it needed, and customised the rib cuffs to a more comfortable fit.
It’s been re-issued for Autumn/Winter ’17 as the ‘RAF’ bomber in a recycled polyester, with recycled polyester wadding.”
Double-Breasted Denim Button Through Jacket
“This an original KH reject fabric test sample. This style was conceived as a men’s coat, which was a cross between a duffel coat and a military parka.
The proportions were taken from a duffel and the details were military, with square reinforced buttonholes and a raft of internal utility pockets. The final production fabric was a cotton canvas, and this is the short version.
This season I have remade it for women in padded silk (with recycled polyester wadding) as the ‘Julie’. The ultimate, ultra feminine, cosy, my-boyfriend-is-a-giant, oversized puffa jacket.”
Padded Silk Parka
“I wanted to find a luxurious, sustainable alternative to fur which I think is unbearably cruel – it is one thing to use the skin, a waste/by-product of something that is killed to eat – but a completely different story to kill something just for its fur. Padded silk for me does the trick. This padded silk parka with recycled polyester filling was one of the first garments I produced using this combination in 1983. George Michael had one. It works. I have been skiing in a version with matching padded silk trousers in minus 15 degrees Celsius and was completely warm! It was so light I felt almost naked.
It’s been re-issued this season as the ‘Will’ parka, and follows the same padded silk/recycled polyester filling as before.”
“This sweatshirt was the first one I ever designed. It has an oversized fit and signature incorporated Vs at neckline and cuffs for maximum comfort. It’s been a staple of my collections and has always been a favourite of mine.
This season it has been re-issued for both men and women in 100% organic cotton sweat, and is made in Italy.”